L'Unico Still Numero Uno
Restaurants can be a tough business to be in. Some operators get it right, some flounder. One who has got it right from the start is the effervescent Gordon of L'Unico fame. A fantastic venue certainly helps and there are few that are more spectacular than this beautiful open building on the Esplanade at Trinity Beach. Overlooking the ocean and framed by palm trees, sitting on the verandah - it doesn't get much better than this as far as ambience goes.
L'Unico is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and services a mixed clientele of staunch local supporters and visiting tourists at the growing number of accommodation spots on Vasey Esplanade. The beautiful high ceilinged building with foldout doors all round creates a truly tropical atmosphere. The service at L'Unico on the day we dined was brisk and busy. Water is automatically placed at the table and menus given when seated. There was little to fault. Our efficient waiter talked us through the day's specials: Crab Bisque, fried mudcrab with bugs, oysters natural or Kilpatrick, panfried barramundi, mussels in garlic and white wine - our eventual choice.
Breads include bruschetta with tomato and basil and garlic bread or pannini. First courses, or Primi on the card, included antipasto - Italian or seafood versions & garlic tiger prawns, black lip mussels in Napoletana sauce, and a dish earmarked for our next visit: a stack of chargrilled vegetables and goat cheese that looked great heading off to surrounding tables. Being very fond of mussels, our table had to try both versions - white wine and Napoletana. These are huge serves in steaming bowls with plenty of sauce. They are sensibly presented with finger bowls and large slices of sourdough to soak up the sauces. We like to order a bowl of plain pasta to toss in when the mussels are finished. The mussles were succulent and tender, the tomato version with a hint of chilli. The white wine sauce with masses of garlic, parsley and butter was even better.
There is a bambini (kids) menu which covers a good selection: mini pizza, lasagne, spaghetti Bolognese, schnitzel and chips and fish and chips. The chips at L'Unico are cooked to perfection. We always order a serve of them and are never disappointed. Other side dishes include rocket salad with shaved parmesan, a solid favourite; Caesar; olives, tomato and goat cheese; and tomato and bocconcini. The eggplant parmigiana is always great layered with mozzarella and a rich tomato sauce.
The pasta dishes are very consistent and very good. If you like bugs and avocado, then you can't go past this terrific blend of flavours in their Penne Cigale e Avocado. The light rosa sauce combines perfectly in this dish. Linguini e Capesante is another clever combination of tender scallops, garlic, olive oil and chilli with flat linguini. L'Unico's Spaghetti Marinara includes prawns, mussels, calamari and fish pieces in a tomato sauce. Non-seafood options are the decadent gnocchi with four cheeses or eggplant with sundried tomatoes and olives. A pasta dish which has become one of L'Unico's classics is the Linguini al'Indiana. This is an East West combination that really works. The prawns and linguini marry very well with the creamy textured lightly spiced curry flavours in the sauce.
The only dish we didn't really enjoy was the Calamari Piccanti. Served in a chilli coating and on a bed of rocket, the calamari was tough as can so often happen with this dish. The pizzas never disappoint however, with their crisp base and plentiful topping. Giove is their prosciutto, asparagus, pinenuts and bocconcini version. Other interesting choices include smoked salmon, rocket and capers; lamb, caramelized onions and cherry tomatoes; and roasted vegetables and goats cheese. Our Venere pizza had loads of finely shaved ham, pepperoni, chunky mushrooms, real olives (no black rubber rings here) and mozzarella. It was really filling and quickly devoured.
L'Unico offers desserts that continue their high standards. We like to choose white chocolate cheese cake or lime meringue pie. Their sticky date pud is also a good version, as is their tiramisu`. Prices are very reasonable.
The Salsa Sisters Barfly Magazine - http://www.barfly.com.au
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